Slow Living Radio takes a slow look at Indiana,
talking to a cheesemaker whose farm dates back to the 1800’s and use only grass
farming. We then discover a chef’s life coming to Indiana and exploring the food
scene and local farming community. A
real taste of Slow Living.
Matthew Brichford
Cheesemaker
French Cows + Hoosier Grass = Legacy Cheese
Ever
consider what your legacy will be? A family heirloom, a traditional dance?
“Dirt”, says heartland dairy farmer and cheese producer Matthew Brichford. “The
Jacobs-Brichford family’s legacy is our farm’s terroir. The unique characteristics
of this earth and its grass, expressed through raw milk cheeses, assure the rigor
of our Indiana roots.”
The family’s
440 acres of lush pasture in southeastern Indiana contribute unique grassy
notes to Jacobs and Brichford’s Farmstead Cheeses. Rotational grazing on
carefully balanced grass varieties brings the flavor to the aging room. Whether
subtly perfumed or outright audacious, the hand-crafted cheeses hit the terroir
nail on the head: barnyardy Ameribella, tangy Everton, herbaceous Briana,
earthy Adair, sweet Tomme de Fayette, and youthful JQ.
“The Jacobs-Brichford
family’s legacy is our farm’s terroir. The unique characteristics of this earth
and its grass, expressed through raw milk cheeses, assure the rigor of our Indiana
roots.”
Brichford
and his wife Leslie Jacobs took over his family’s 200-year-old Hoosier
Homestead farm in 1981. In 1995, they converted a grain and cattle operation to
relevant, next-generation growth stock: dairy cow pasture. The idea to someday produce
cheese motivated changes on the farm. Management Intensive Grazing, introduced in
1988 to mitigate the effects of drought, boosted the milk’s creaminess, flora,
and flavor. For 17 years, the farm sold
premium grass fed milk to the milk coop – without the premium prices. An
unpredictable commodity market, with its unstable revenue stream, brought the
future of the farm into question. One way to add value to the milk production
was cheese making.
The milk from a selected herd “allows us make cheese that will carry our farm into the future,” asserts Brichford. However, he adds, when it comes down to it, “I am a grass farmer who makes cheese.” A boisterous, can-do attitude and fine tuned palate complement the farm’s resources and mission.
The slow,
methodical route to crafting the cheese Brichford had in mind was driven by
experiential learning. He began with cheese making workshops at the University
of Wisconsin, River Falls (2001) and the University of Guelph, Ontario (2002). In 2003, the Jacobs-Brichfords plunged into a
French tour du fromage, genetic cow profiling, New Age aging technology, herd
management, and regulation rigmarole. Construction of the cheese plant began in
2010, and production began in 2012.
Flavor
profiles emerged: a blend of Indiana terroir and French Tarentaise, Normande,
and Jersey cows. The herd was reduced in size to a manageable number.
Currently, around 85 French cows produce copious quantities of high-butterfat
milk, which is the gateway to luscious, high-protein, vitamin-rich, gut-healthy
Good Food Award winners.
Holistic approach to cheese making
Beneath
Brichford’s bushy beard – started around the same time as his Indiana farming
venture - are the guts to roll with Mother Nature. “We follow the natural rhythm
of the herd,” he explains. The cows move from pasture to pasture, and are exclusively
grass fed. Cheese is produced only when
cows are naturally lactating, typically between March
and December. The New Zealand-style open-air milking parlor promotes a
comfortable cow lifestyle. The whey separated out in the cheese making process is
fed to the farm’s Berkshire hogs, which are fattened and sold to an artisanal
charcuterie
producer. All cheeses are processed with raw milk sourced only from the
farm’s own
cows.
Matthew and Leslie’s
three daughters were all raised on and contributed to the family farm. Other
family members lent their names to the cheeses: Great Grandmother America Arabella
inspired Ameribella, and Adair was named for Matthew’s mom and her considerable
Scottish forebears.
Jacobs and
Brichford Farmstead Cheeses 2957 South State Road 1
Connersville,
IN 47331
765-692-0056
Chef Sam Merenda
Executive ChefKahn’S Catering, Indiana
What was the main reason you decided to
be a chef?
Growing up my grandmother was Italian. She taught me
at a very young age how to make gnocchi. Since then I always had a passion for
cooking. Grilling out was always fun as a teenager. During high school I took
food services courses which enlightened me to want to pursues the chef
profession after graduation.
What inspires you the most?
Flavorful combinations that intertwine into an awesome
dish.
What is your favorite thing about
working in the catering industry and for Kahn’s Catering? What about the most
challenging?
My favorite thing about working in this industry is
all the great food you get to create and eat. The most challenging part of the
chef profession is the long hours worked and holidays you miss while you’re at
work, but I love the amount of satisfied clients and guests that we feed on a
daily basis.
This industry, whether it is restaurant
or catering, is always changing. How do you keep up with all the cooking
trends?
It’s important to stay in the loop with social media,
magazines, research, food shows and dining out. Pinterest is huge in
understanding what others are finding an interest in and through that we can
expand and explore our menu based on what is trending.
If you had one weekend to travel anywhere, which city would you dine in?
Sicily. Hands down.
Is there any ingredient you think is
under-appreciated in dishes?
Obviously salt, but mirepoix is underutilized. It’s a
mixture of chopped onions, celery, and carrots. Surprisingly it is a basic that
gets overlooked often.
For the newly engaged, what kind of
questions should they be asking their caterer?
You want to trust your caterer and it’s important to
understand their experience. Ask how many weddings they cater in a year and how
many chefs they have on staff. It isn’t unlikely for us to have six weddings on
one Saturday during the busy wedding season, but we have an amazing staff that
knows how to prep and serve large numbers of people.
Any advice you can give them?
Always challenge your caterer to provide you with a
tasting prior to the event. Kahn’s offers tastings three times a year. Our
wedding clients have the opportunity to attend one of those once they book with
us. Tastings are a huge part of the planning process. It gives you the opportunity
to try a variety of different food and also an opportunity to experience the
service you can expect at your wedding.
If you
had one weekend to travel anywhere, which city would you dine in?
Sicily. Handsdown.
About Chef Sam Merenda
Chef Sam Merenda began his career at the American
Culinary Arts Academy in Lakeland, Florida in 1997. By the year 2000 he had both
his Culinary Arts degree and a degree in Hotel Resort Management. His talents
were recognized early as he became a corporate trainer for the growing seafood
concept Bonefish Grill. After a two-year stint, Chef Merenda moved over to Walt
Disney World Resorts in Lake Buena Vista, Florida to work as Sous Chef in three
different world-class resorts: The Boardwalk Resort, The Grand Floridian Resort
and Spa and The Coronado Springs Convention Hotel. Continuing to advance his
career, in 2007 Chef Merenda had the distinct pleasure to work as Senior Sous
Chef in the Wolfgang Puck Café, downtown Disney. Relocating to Indianapolis in
2009 Chef Merenda worked tirelessly as Sous Chef at Oakley’s Bistro and then
Chef de Cuisine at Charbonos in Avon before coming to Kahn’s Catering as
Executive Chef in 2012.
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