Australia - A Café Tour
 |
| Aromas café, Noosa, Queensland |
Australia - a land of beautiful beaches, pristine oceans
bursting with amazing seafood; rolling green hills, extreme outback, stunning rainforest and unique wildlife. A land of people who love really good food and wine (and other beverages), love their leisure time, and love showing off their amazing country to anyone in earshot, whether shooting down a schooner of beer at a "local" (beer garden or pub), huddled over an espresso in a laneway cafe, enjoying oysters and sparkling wine on a wharf somewhere or battling extreme white water rapids.
There are a mere six states and three territories, yet each brings a huge
diversity of experiences, and unique landforms. And each offers also a melding of exciting cities, quaint country towns and sleepy beachside communities. Their wine regions are as varied as France, boutique beer is plentiful, and award
winning whisky is coming to the fore – and they all boast a taste of their
individual terroir.
Friendly local pubs are a necessity to the culture, and
speakeasy style bars and eclectic wine bars open by the minute, all entwined with a relaxed laid back
life style that co-exists with a fervent city buzz. The inhabitants have a
thirst for laughter (along with their beverages), enjoyment of life, and
welcoming visitors.
Australia’s restaurants flow out into the streets and
laneways, beaches and wineries, forests and farms, the dividing line between inside
and out undefined, so they bring with them a sense of place, reflected also in
the food and ambience.
 |
| Berardo's on the Beach |
But one of the biggest hidden gems of Australia is the essential abundance of cafes, coffee shops and street carts, all delivering some of the world’s finest brews and espresso. Australians take their coffee very seriously! No matter where you roam, the intoxicating aromas drift in the air, and the hum of foaming milk beckons you to hunt it down. And whether a busy street front cafe, a cozy nook on a suburban laneway, or a Parissiene style "people-watcher, the energy is magnetic and it's the perfect place to blend with the locals. Couples and friends huddle together over lattes and flat whites, deep in conversation. Singles pore over papers, perched on benches and stools, and the business crowd stand and savor the moment before moving on to work.
 |
| City fix at Workshop, Sydney |
They have become a day-into-night gathering place, the lines blurred between breakfast, “morning tea”, lunch, afternoon break, and into the wee hours. Many have also added wine and even music to their portfolio to appeal to a broader crowd. And what better way to enjoy an afternoon macchiato than with a side of wine! |
| Jazz at the Union, Newtown, Sydney |
Breakfasts are the new
Australian signature, with icons such as smashed avocado on grainy bread or rashers of crispy bacon, and a wobbly poached egg waiting to pour out its
molten yolk, or for the healthy minded, Bircher muesli with seasonal fruit and homemade yogurt.
 |
| Breakfast at the Kurrajong Hotel in Canberra |
The café journey begins
with a sampler of musts from my recent travels.
Canberra
The Nation's Unexpected Capital
We begin our journey in Canberra, Australia’s relatively
undiscovered capital. A capital that was
created because (some say, some deny) Sydney and Melbourne rivalry couldn’t
be solved. At one time, not actually that long ago, Canberra was a conglomeration of boring concrete structures housing
flocks of public servants, interspersed with a smattering of gorgeous historic museums and internationally designed embassies. Food then was a blend of some extreme fine dining and so-so cafes.
 |
| View from Mt Ainslie over the Australian War Memorial in the foreground, Lake Burley Griffin and the old and new Parliament Houses in the distance. |
Nowadays, however Canberra has emerged as an architectural fascination, with jaw dropping radical modernist structures, vying for space between the historical and cultural buildings. Streets once home to car yards and delis now have been converted into hubs of serious small cafes, happening bars and brimming restaurants. Suburbs of considerable wealth, pay homage to elegant boutiques decorated with drinking and dining holes to “be seen” or “not be seen”, all outlining the picturesque landmark of Lake Burley Griffin. All through the city, you can find extreme and adventurous, yet well-orchestrated restaurants, some snuggling into some equally extreme hotel lobbies and delivering food that has cleverly mastered fusion in its truest form. A spider web of cycle paths enables you to master the city on bike without ever having to second guess the cars.
 |
| The quirky Hotel Hotel |
 |
| Outdoor Art in Canberra |
The Cupping Room,
Barton, Canberra
The Cupping Room, perched on an unassuming CBD street corner, won my special
attention this year. The energy emerging from this café is
everything but unassuming and quiet however. Even
on a Sunday morning when the surrounding streets are eerily deserted, crowds
flock out the door waiting for seats, or to get their “take-away” coffee to
enjoy outside on the sidewalk.
Dedicated to fairly and finely sourced beans, they love
nothing more than sharing their passion and knowledge with their patrons, one
cup at a time! And their high quality mission extends through to the
adventurous food, and focused wine list.
Even other cafes’ baristas silently nudge you miles out of your way just
for the experience.
At breakfast, try the Bircher
muesli with Chia seeds and Gogi berries, soaked in coconut milk and topped with
grated apple and passionfruit puree. Or for those preparing for an active day, ham
hock with corn and potato fritters perhaps? Breakfast and lunch roll together,
with choices like Cascara cured salmon and pickled fennel and beetroot (beet)
jelly, rye and carroway croutons, smoked heirloom tomatoes and house pulled
mozzarella, and lamb rump salad with grapefruit, lychee, bean shoots and mint.
They make a marvelously traditional Australian iced coffee, with espresso, milk, vanilla, a dollop of ice cream and a crowning glory of delicate whipped cream. Sit and enjoy people-watching as well-heeled Euro chic shoppers meander from boutique to café, sipping on sparkling wine or Ristrettos and blending with the suited business crowd. The menu also boasts wines from the surrounds and afar, which pair well with the eclectic salads, pastas, burgers and house made breads.
 |
| The Lawns at Manuka, and Urban Pantry (right) |
Where to stay:
Hotel Kurrajong – A few minutes from the lake in the heart of the Parliament triangle, the Hotel Kurrajong has been restored to its art deco grandeur, with all the mod cons. Rates from $150.00
 |
| Hotel Kurrajong Canberra |
Hyatt
Hotel Canberra – One of Canberra’s first 5 star luxury hotels, with old
world charm and service, and views over the lake. Rates from $250.00
Hotel Hotel –
As the name suggests, this hotel breaks tradition, from its external “Dr Suess
like” architecture to the oblique internal woodwork, restaurant décor and also
menu. Minutes walk to both the city and
lake. Rates from $280.00.
www.visitcanberra.com.au
www.visitcanberra.com.au
The Blue Mountains,
New South Wales' Heritage Listed Showcase
Few cities in the world can boast a world heritage listed region just over an hour from the city centre, but Sydney can, with the glorious Blue Mountains. Over one million hectares of eucalypt-covered landscape lined with sheer cliffs the stand sentry over rugged tablelands, deep valleys, stunning waterfalls, rivers and lakes, and a network of hiking trails throughout. Then there's the wallabies, wombats, native birdlife, such as the bellbirds and rosellas and glorious native trees, the air filled with that head clearing scent of Eucalyptus. The mountains actually gain their name from the blue haze that emits from the Eucalyptus oil in the leaves, and which also lulls the koalas into their deep 20 hour a day snooze. The region is dotted with small towns, all with their unique charm and character, and breathtaking vistas. Add to that the amazing gastronomic diversity, and you have a destination well worth the journey.
One of the most dedicated cafes to the art of coffee in the mountains, is Cassiopeia, quietly hidden amongst overhanging trees, and a block from the bustling main street. Though off the beaten track, serious coffee mountain buffs know it well, so you'll be in good company. Their biscuits (cookies) and cakes are all locally made, and rustic in nature, such as my favorite, the ginger molasses friand.
Leura Garage,
Leura, Blue Mountains, NSW
A converted petrol station, the Leura Garage is decorated
and largely outfitted with car parts, creating a modern metallic décor softened
by the warm service and some of the best food you will enjoy in the
mountains. Pizzas, salads, pasta,
antipasto, sandwiches and an eclectic wine list rush from the busy kitchen, and
the coffee is so popular they have an outdoor window and seating to deflect
some of the crowd from the bar.
Where to stay:
 |
| Lilianfels |
Lilianfels – Pampered, comfortable luxury hovering on the edge of the cliff face, there is no better view than here or the sister property next door, Echoes Boutique Hotel. A spa, infinity and indoor pool, billiards room and magnificent lounge add to the experience. Both have fabulous restaurants. Rates from $200.00.
 |
| The View from Echoes Guest House Restaurant |
For a taste of historic Katoomba, The Carrington is well worth a stop, even if just for a cocktail at their happy hour with live music on Friday nights. Entering the lobby you feel like you are entering a bygone era, elegant, charming and with the "grandmother" welcoming touch. The hotel is passionate about sustainability too, being active in the Blue Mountains gaining status with the International Cittaslow. For boutique local and international wines, and gourmet foods, the Carrington Cellars is a must. Rooms from $100.00.
http://www.visitbluemountains.com.au
Noosa and the Hinterland, Queensland
The town itself is a little like a small Aspen on the water, upscale and modern with a huge array of stylish stores, restaurants, gelaterias and boutique hotels. Yet the vibe is relaxed and family friendly.
Within an hour you can drive to lush rainforest, quaint rural towns with stunning views, and the famous Eumundi markets, one of the most diverse and interesting I’ve encountered.
 |
| Exotic Ginger and related plants grace the Buderim Grounds |
Aromas,
 |
| Flat white and fruit tart at Aromas |
Eumundi, Queensland
Just a short drive from Noosa, “the quaint timber mill town
that Eumundi was in the early 1900’s has gradually morphed itself into an
eclectic melting pot of post hippie baby-boomers and interstate migrants who
have discovered the hidden gem it has become.”
 |
| Grilled Haloumi Salad at the Bohemian Bungalow |
Where to stay:
Seahaven Noosa
Resort – Walk out your door onto the white sands and dive into the gently
clear waves from this hotel with full kitchen.
Enjoy a barbecue sitting on the deck or poolside, or wander up the
street for a choice of fine dining, relaxed cafes, ice cream, coffee and late
night bars. Rates from $200.00.
 |
| View from Seahaven Balcony |
Narrows Escape
Rainforest Retreat - Romance is in
the air at this retreat snuggled into lush rainforest, just down the road from
the charming town of Montville. Log cabins line a gurgling brook, a spa bath
edges the lounge room and a hammock swings on the deck, all beckoning you to
relax and revive. The breakfast hamper is beyond wonderful. A must is dinner at
the Long Apron at Spicers
Clovelly Estate up the road (the French Laundry of the region).
 |
| Cabin deck at Narrows Escape Rainforest Retreat |
I couldn’t end without a few look-ins worth a visit in the
country’s best known city.
Sydney
Workshop
Espresso, CBD, Sydney, NSW
Room 10,
Potts Point, Sydney, NSW
The once infamous Kings Cross, home to brothels, pubs and sailors,
has gone upmarket main streets and back alleys brimming with bakeries, cafes,
ethnic eateries, unique stores and wine bars.
My pick goes to Room 10, a hole in the wall espresso bar, on a quiet
laneway so you can take a break from cars buzzing by. Small and unpretentious, yet delivering
dangerously good coffee and food, its miniscule kitchen producing an amazing
array of toasts, unique breakfasts like a wild rice and grain hot cereal with
seeds, nuts, and stewed rhubarb, and the perfect mashed avocado with egg in
shell.
And finally, just a couple more suggestions if you are
fortunate enough to venture to Tasmania. Don’t overlook the island state – it’s
one of Australia’s best kept secrets!
Laneway Café,
Devonport, Tasmania
Doctor Café, Salamanca
Place, Hobart, Tasmania
Jackman
and McRoss Bakery, Battery Point, Hobart, Tasmania
Pigeon Hole Cafe,
West Hobart, Tasmania
If you are fortunate enough to travel Qantas (and I highly recommend it), your trip will begin once you board the plane, not disembark. Relaxed Australian hospitality greets you where you can learn a bit of the local ‘lingo’, not to mention enjoying a terrific Australian seasonal changing menu and wine list, featuring some of Australia's finest purveyors, no matter what class you fly. If you happen to be flying Business or First, you’ll have access to the marvelous lounges, with food by celebrated chef, Neil Perry, showers, complimentary Australian wines, cocktails, and one of Australia's premier coffees, Vittoria.
Here's a sampling of what's on offer for this season:
The wine list compiled by leading Australian sommeliers. In fact, the Qantas Group received nine medals at this year’s Cellars in the Sky Awards, the most of any airline group, including a Gold award for Best First Class Sparkling and Best Business Class Fortified/Dessert wine.
Getting there
· Seared Alaskan halibut (caught off the coast of Raspberry Island, Alaska) with roasted leeks, black olive tapenade and bacon roasted potatoes
· Dungeness crab with spaghetti in a garlic cream sauce and almonds.
 |
| Seasonal Tomatoes and Torn Buffalo Mozzarella at the Qantas Club lounge |
No comments:
Post a Comment